Teslas are heavy, and that weight rides hard on the inner edge of the tires. Add the negative camber built into the suspension and the inside of the tread wears out long before the rest of the tire. Adjustable suspension arms give you back the rear camber adjustment the factory left out, so your tires wear evenly and last.
Adjustable arms from $220
Burning through your inner tire edges every 15,000 miles?
It is almost always camber. The fix is giving your suspension the adjustment the factory never built in.
See It For Yourself
What Inner-Edge Wear Actually Looks Like
Camber wear hides on the inside edge of the tire — the outer tread can look almost new while the inside scrubs away, so most owners never catch it in time. Left unchecked it wears through to the steel belts and can let go at highway speed.
Stage 1Inner edge gone, outer tread like newClassic camber wear — hidden on the inside and easy to miss.Stage 2Worn down to the steel cordsThis Model X scrubbed clean through the tread. Unsafe to drive.Stage 3Blowout at speedThis Model Y let go on the highway from the same ignored wear.
Adjustable camber arms and a proper alignment stop the wear long before it gets this far.
The Cause
It Starts With Camber
Camber is the angle your tire sits at when you look at the car head-on. When the top of the wheel leans in toward the car, that is negative camber, and the tire rides mostly on its inner edge. A little is normal and helps handling. Too much, and the inside of the tread scrubs away while the rest of the tire still looks brand new.
Teslas run more negative camber than most cars from the factory, and their battery weight presses the tires into that inner edge even harder. That combination is exactly why so many Tesla owners see the inside of their tires wear out first.
Model S & Model X
Ride Height Changes Your Camber
Model S and Model X ride on adjustable air suspension. You can raise or lower the car right from the screen, and it can even change height on its own at speed. But because of how the suspension is built, every change in ride height also changes camber. Drop the car and you add negative camber.
Plenty of owners run their car low for the look, sharper handling, or to settle the early Model X front-end vibration. That stance looks great, but without a way to correct camber it quietly eats the inner edges of your tires.
Model 3 & Model Y
For Tire Wear, Stock Or Lowered
Plenty of completely stock Model 3 and Model Y owners come to us with the inside edges of their tires worn down — the factory negative camber doing its damage. Because these cars have no rear camber adjustment from the factory, there is no way to dial it back. Adjustable rear camber arms add it, so your shop can set it to spec and stop the wear, even on a car you have never touched.
They matter just as much once you lower the car. Springs, coilovers, or an aggressive wheel-and-tire setup all add rear camber — so a lowered 3 or Y can finally be aligned properly and still wear its tires evenly.
The Parts
What Actually Fixes It
Each part below replaces a factory arm with a stronger, adjustable one, giving your alignment shop the room to bring things back into spec. Add the right kit for your model straight to your cart.
The Main Fix
Rear Adjustable Camber Arms
Most Teslas have no factory rear camber adjustment at all, so once the rear sits at too much negative camber there is no way to correct it. These adjustable rear arms add it, letting your shop set camber back to spec and stop the inner-edge wear at its source.
Model 3 & Model Y — Choose Your Bushing
Budget · comfort
Hardened Rubber Bushings
The budget-friendly fix. A firmer rubber bushing replaces the soft factory part to bring rear camber back into adjustment, while keeping a cushioned, near-stock ride.
Lowest-cost way to stop the inner-edge wear
Softest, quietest ride — closest to factory comfort
Sealed and maintenance-free for life
A solid choice for a no-fuss daily driver
Pick this if budget and maximum comfort come first.
The upgrade we recommend, and what nearly every high-end kit runs. A sealed spherical bearing replaces the rubber for crisp, precise camber that stays exactly where your shop sets it, and is right at home on a daily-driven street car.
Sharper, more connected rear end than rubber
Holds its alignment and will not soften or crack with age
Perfectly streetable — daily-drive it with confidence
Bearing is replaceable, so the arm lasts for the long haul
Trade-off: a touch more road feel, the firmer sporty feel most owners want
Pick this for the sharpest, longest-lasting setup, daily driver or not.
Bottom line: the $220 rubber set is the budget way to stop the wear with the comfiest ride. The $260 pillowball is the upgrade we point most people to — sharper, longer-lasting, and just as happy daily-driven.
Model S & Model X — Pillowball Precision
Precision upgrade
Rear Camber — Model S / X
Adjustable rear camber for 2012+ Model S and 2016+ Model X, on sealed pillowball bearings for precise, lasting control.
Adds the rear camber adjustment the factory leaves out
Spherical bearings for a crisp, precise rear end
Holds its setting — no rubber to soften or crack
Fully streetable; bearing is replaceable down the road
Every Tesla already has a factory rear toe adjustment, so most cars are covered. But it is a small range — on heavily lowered or modified setups the camber change shifts toe past the factory range. These arms add the extra range to pull rear toe fully back to spec, on pillowball bushings. Pair them with the camber arms for full rear alignment control.
Front camber is barely adjustable from the factory: Model S and X have a small cam-bolt adjuster on the lower arm, while Model 3 and Y have essentially none. A stock-height car is usually fine, so most owners never need these. But lower or modify the car and the front pulls into more negative camber than that tiny factory range can pull back. These adjustable upper arms add the room to set front camber to spec and protect your front tires.
For air-suspension cars. These billet links set exactly where your Model S or X sits, so you run the stance you want every day. With adjustable arms and a proper alignment, you keep the look without trading away your tires.
Once your adjustable arms are installed, these are the specs we recommend. Hand them to your alignment shop. For Model S and X, have the alignment done in the Medium ride height shown on your center screen, since the specs already account for how the geometry shifts between heights, so you get even tire wear at any ride height.
Front Camber-0.3° to -1.2°
Front Caster3.5° to 4.5°
Front Toe0.00° to 0.10°
Total Front Toe0.00° to 0.20°
Steer Ahead-0.05° to 0.05°
Rear Camber-0.75° to -0.85°
Rear Toe0.10° to 0.20°
Total Rear Toe0.20° to 0.40°
Thrust Angle-0.20° to 0.20°
Front Camber-0.4° to -1.3°
Front Caster3.8° to 4.8°
Front Toe0.00° to 0.15°
Total Front Toe0.00° to 0.30°
Steer Ahead-0.05° to 0.05°
Rear Camber-0.50° to -0.65°
Rear Toe0.15° to 0.20°
Total Rear Toe0.30° to 0.40°
Thrust Angle-0.10° to 0.10°
Front Camber-0.55° to -0.65°
Front Caster4.7° to 6.7°
Front Toe0.00° to 0.10°
Total Front Toe0.00° to 0.20°
Steer Ahead-0.05° to 0.05°
Rear Camber-0.75° to -0.85°
Rear Toe0.05° to 0.10°
Total Rear Toe0.10° to 0.20°
Thrust Angle-0.20° to 0.20°
Front Camber-0.55° to -0.65°
Front Caster4.7° to 6.7°
Front Toe0.00° to 0.10°
Total Front Toe0.00° to 0.20°
Steer Ahead-0.05° to 0.05°
Rear Camber-0.75° to -0.85°
Rear Toe0.05° to 0.10°
Total Rear Toe0.10° to 0.20°
Thrust Angle-0.20° to 0.20°
Final alignment should be performed by a qualified alignment shop. These are recommended starting specs and can be fine-tuned for your specific setup and driving preferences.
Adjustment The Factory Skipped
Most Teslas ship with no rear camber adjustment. These arms add it, so the rear can finally be aligned to spec.
Longer Tire Life
Correct the camber and the inner edge stops scrubbing, so a set of tires lasts the way it should.
Built Stronger Than Stock
Reinforced, adjustable arms with hardened rubber or pillowball bushings for a tighter, more precise rear end.
Stock Or Lowered
Works on a factory-height car fixing OEM camber, or a lowered and modified build that needs realignment.
FAQ
Tesla Tire Wear: Common Questions
Why do Teslas wear the inside edge of the tires?
Two things stack up: Teslas run a fair amount of negative camber, and their battery weight loads the tires hard. That puts most of the load on the inner edge of the tread, so the inside wears out well before the rest of the tire. On Model S and X, running the air suspension low adds even more negative camber and speeds it up.
Will adjustable camber arms stop my tire wear?
They give you the adjustment to fix it. The arms let your alignment shop bring rear camber back into a healthy range instead of being stuck at the factory angle. Paired with a proper alignment to spec, that is what evens out the wear.
What is the difference between rubber and pillowball bushings?
Rubber bushings are the budget-friendly, comfort-first option — a firmer-than-stock bushing that brings camber back into adjustment while keeping a soft, quiet, near-factory ride, and it is sealed and maintenance-free. Pillowball bushings are the precision upgrade and what most high-end kits run: a sealed spherical bearing that gives a sharper, more connected feel and camber that stays exactly where it is set, without softening or cracking as it ages. Pillowball is fully suited to daily street driving — you will feel a little more road texture, and the bearing is replaceable so the arm lasts. Rubber for budget and comfort; pillowball for precision and longevity.
Do I need toe arms too, or just camber arms?
Camber arms are the main fix and the place to start. Every Tesla already has a factory rear toe adjustment that covers a mild, near-stock car, so camber arms alone often do the job. Adjustable toe arms matter on lowered or modified cars, where the camber change shifts toe past the factory range.
Do I need front upper camber arms?
Most owners do not. A stock-height Tesla usually sits within acceptable front camber. Factory front camber adjustment is small to none — Model S and X have a limited cam-bolt adjuster on the front lower arm, Model 3 and Y have essentially none — so once you lower or modify the car into too much negative camber, there is not enough factory range to correct it. These arms add that adjustment.
Does lowering my Model S or X ruin the tires?
Lowering adds negative camber, which on its own will wear the inner edges. The fix is adjustable ride-height links to set your stance plus adjustable arms to correct the camber, then a proper alignment. Done that way, you can run a lower car and still get even tire wear.
Do I still need an alignment after installing these?
Yes. The arms make the adjustment possible, but a qualified shop still has to set the alignment. We list our recommended specs above. For Model S and X, the alignment should be done in the Medium ride height so the numbers hold true across all your height settings.
Do I have to be local to buy these?
No. These parts ship, so you can order them and have your own shop install and align. Ride Rite is based in the Northern California Bay Area, and we are happy to help with fitment questions either way.
Not Sure Which Parts Your Tesla Needs?
Tell us your model, year, and whether your car is stock or lowered, and we will point you to the right kit for your setup.
All prices shown are for parts before tax and are subject to change; current pricing is on each product page. Ride Rite is an independent parts and service provider and is not affiliated with, endorsed by, or sponsored by Tesla, Inc. All vehicle names and model designations are trademarks of their respective owners, used here for identification only.
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